Archives - July, 2018



27 Jul 18

New sensation: Neil Perry’s Glacier 51 toothfish dish. Photo: SuppliedTen years ago, Patagonia toothfish conjured images of illegal fishing and endangered species.
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Now, one of the world’s rarest, hardest-to-catch fish is about to land in restaurants and, in about six months, in shops.

The Australian government has patrolled its territorial waters to keep out illegal fishers and Austral Fisheries, which now has a 2500-kilogram annual quota, uses hooks and lines to selectively catch the toothfish.

Chef Neil Perry describes the fish they catch 4000 kilometres offshore as ”supremely delicious, sustainable and Australian”. Perry isn’t the only enthusiast. Launched at the Noosa International Food and Wine Festival, Glacier 51 toothfish – named after the Heard Island glacial waters in which it’s caught – was so well received, salesman Dylan Skinns admitted, ”we can barely keep up with the orders”.

This week it goes on the menu at Rockpool Bar & Grill in both Sydney and Melbourne, as well as at Sake in Sydney and Grossi Florentino in Melbourne.

The fish lives in the ice-cold water of the Antarctic’s Great Southern Ocean. It’s an oily fish with a high fat content to withstand the freezing conditions, but this makes for a fish of great versatility and deep, rich flavour.

”A chef’s dream, they tell me,” Skinns says.

There were other chefs’ dreams at the festival, with Martin Benn of Sydney’s Sepia discovering salumi – handcrafted smallgoods, including rolled pancetta, flat pancetta, salami of all varieties, cured loin, dried Sardinian sausage, and guanciale (cured pork jowl). ”It will be on the bar menu [at Sepia] before the end of the week,” Benn says.

Food of the future was the focus of a panel discussion, with Peter Gilmore of Quay restaurant saying there would be less focus on foraging by chefs. More technique-driven cooking with a ”big emphasis on texture” were his tips for restaurant trends.

And David Kinch of Manresa restaurant in California agreed texture was growing in importance. ”There are certain cuts of meat that have texture … more people are realising that’s just the inherent nature of the meat and something to be celebrated,” he said.

Sue Bennett was a guest of Sunshine Coast Destination.On trend

● Marine Stewardship Council-certified sustainable Patagonia toothfish is appearing on menus in Sydney and Melbourne restaurants.

● Dining at home will enjoy a revival. For the well heeled, it will mean staff in the kitchen and a butler at the door.

● After a 12-year gap, apprenticeships for waiters are to be reintroduced. Research shows people will go back to a restaurant if the food is poor but the service is good, but finding skilled staff remains one of the industry’s greatest challenges. ”My fear is we don’t have enough kids looking for that career in the industry, but we have the resources [money to run courses],” says John Hart, Restaurant and Catering Australia chief executive.Something we never knew

Mussels change sex. When the meat is white, a mussel is male and tastes the sweetest. Mussels with orange meat are female and are generally less tasty.

It’s impossible to determine the sex before cooking.

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27 Jul 18

Ancient grains are the future, especially quinoa. Photo: Danielle Smith1. Dust off your aprons
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We’ll be turning into our own grandmothers – pickling, preserving, jamming and marmalading, smoking and curing, dehydrating and fermenting. We’ll make fewer cheffy desserts, but there will be more baking, of cakes, pies, tarts, biscuits, slices, and what Americans call ”pie”, a cheesecake-style open tart with a biscuit crumb base and creamy filling. Sweet potato, white chocolate and banana-cream filling, come on down.

2. Remodel the kitchen

To the horror of clutter-hating kitchen designers, our kitchens will continue to change shape, as we surround ourselves with the things that make us happy and allocate more room for recycling, growing things and grills. We’ll also pinch the things we like about our favourite cafes and install them at home, from custom-made espresso machines and food served on planks and boards to smoothies and all-day breakfasts. And quinoa, of course.

3. Ancient grains are the future

The United Nations declared 2013 to be the International Year of Quinoa. It says the 3000-year-old grain is the organic food of the future, with a significant role to play in potential food security and the eradication of poverty. And there you were, thinking it was so last year. Along with other grains and seeds, quinoa is already on our shopping lists. In Donna Hay’s latest hit, Fresh and Light, it appears 13 times, in roles as varied as piecrust and sushi ”rice”.

4. We’ll probably dabble in a bit of these, too.

Singaporean laksa, ramen noodles and summer rolls, from our love and understanding of being part of south-east Asia; meatballs from Mexican to Moroccan, pasta al forno (oven-baked), slow roasts and everything-on-toast, for familiarity and much-needed comfort. Latin salsas, flavoured salts and Mexican chillies are on the menu for sheer excitement value, and porridge, native greens and raw foods for feeling good.

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27 Jul 18

Laurie Daley’s first camp as NSW coach was just a few hours old when he suffered his first major setback: the withdrawal of bench utility Kurt Gidley due to a foot injury.
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Scans on Gidley’s foot, following an injury during the Knights’ 28-12 loss to the Warriors on Sunday, stunned the Blues just 24 hours after the squad was announced for game one. Daley said he would name a replacement on Tuesday.

Daley will likely decide who to bring in for the ANZ Stadium clash on Wednesday week by around lunchtime, to have the replacement in camp by Tuesday’s afternoon training session.

But it is clear that the replacement will not be apples for apples. Daley will now decide whether to possibly bring in a second-rower or a prop to replace Gidley, given there are few players with the Newcastle player’s ability to play so many positions. Willie Mason, Aaron Woods, Boyd Cordner, Feleti Mateo, Josh Reynolds, Josh McCrone and Wade Graham are set to be considered. Daley may decide to add more size to his side, knowing starters Luke Lewis and Greg Bird can offer utility value.

Blues skipper Paul Gallen said on Monday night he hoped Daley opted for a bigger player.

”Personally, I think they should pick another bigger bloke,” Gallen told Triple M. ”Cordner, Tim Grant, Tariq Sims or someone like that. I think they should pick a bigger bloke. I just don’t think there’s another player in the game who can do what Kurt Gidley can do. I don’t think there’s any point in picking a McCrone or someone like that. I think we maybe should go a bigger guy.”

Daley wanted to watch Monday night’s clash between South Sydney and Cronulla before making a decision, which suggested that he was considering Rabbitohs five-eighth John Sutton, who can play in the forwards, as well as Cronulla’s Todd Carney, who were both pitched as options at No.6.

Further disruptions are also possible this week, with skipper Paul Gallen (knee) and Lewis (shoulder) missing Monday night’s clash with the Rabbitohs.

Gidley played on after the injury on Sunday but MRI scans on Monday confirmed a torn ligament in his right foot.

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27 Jul 18

Greater Western Sydney were eager to avoid the second-year syndrome Gold Coast suffered last season but have been struck down by an even more potent strain.
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After a string of honourable losses in the first five rounds, which had league boss Andrew Demetriou lauding the Giants for their competitiveness, the club has come back to earth with a thud.

The Giants, still winless after nine rounds, have posted losses of 135, 83 and 100 points in the past three weeks – taking their combined losing margin to 600 or an average of 11 goals a game. At the corresponding stage of their sophomore season, the Suns were 397 points in arrears.

Leon Cameron, who will take the reins from Kevin Sheedy at the end of the season, has admitted the team has not met his pre-season expectations. ”I’d hope we’d have a win on the board and less blow-out games,” Cameron said.

Gold Coast did not break their duck until round 16 last year and it could be a similar wait for the Giants. It will not be until early July in round 15 when the AFL’s newest team faces a bottom-four contender, the Western Bulldogs, and they do not play Melbourne until round 19.

”We did a lot of research on Gold Coast, it warned us it would be tougher than the first year,” said Cameron, whose team tackle Carlton at Etihad Stadium this week. ”Guys don’t do opposition analysis in the first year, now they hone in on all our kids … they get manned up by better players.

”We were wary of that. We know the chips are down but our morale and energy is still up. It’s like having a toddler, they fall over, scrape their knee cry for two minutes then get on with it.”

Injuries have also been cruel to the Giants, who have the bulk of their key position players in the casualty ward. No.1 draft pick and key forward Jonathon Patton has a season-ending knee injury, fullback Phil Davis is out with a back injury while centre half-back Chad Cornes is yet to play a game.

Cornes’ experience has been sorely missed for a young team that had veterans Luke Power and James McDonald retire after 2012.

There was another paltry home crowd on the weekend but Cameron said it was up to the club to start delivering performances.

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27 Jul 18

AT TIMES docile, at others ferocious, the face and body of King Kong has been revealed to be a complex system of animatronics, pulleys and sheer human endurance.
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Operated off-stage by up to four people manning “voodoo” remote controls, and brought to life on-stage by 10 circus-trained puppeteers, the 1.1 tonne mass of steel, Lycra and hydraulic motors will take to the stage for its world premiere at the Regent Theatre on June 15, the culmination of five years of development in the West Melbourne studio of production company Global Creatures.

“It really is a culmination of a lot of things, stuff that I’ve been dreaming of being able to do on stage,” creature designer Sonny Tilders said.

Building from previous large-scale puppetry projects including the Walking with Dinosaurs and How to Train Your Dragon arena shows, the Global Creatures team worked on bringing a number of mechanical and personal elements together to give the six metre-high gorilla its convincing combination of savagery and humanity.

The main carriage of Kong is manipulated by a heavy rig hidden above the stage. Much of this movement is pre-programmed, lifting and shifting his one-tonne frame onto, across and off the stage. But the subtlety of his movement – a snarled upper lip, a sleepy blink – is the result of human intervention, from the voodoo controllers at the back of the theatre manipulating facial expressions and other musculature to the 10 “King’s Men” on stage manually lifting his arms and legs in a combination of dance, gymnastics and weightlifting.

“There’s no flux capacitor, there’s no one thing that makes it work, it’s just those layers of things,” Tilders said. “And I think that’s what we’ve learned to do, to integrate the art and the science into something that lives and breathes on stage and has a soul.”

Directed by Daniel Kramer, with text by Craig Lucas and music by Marius de Vries (Romeo + Juliet; Moulin Rouge), King Kong is the most expensive theatrical production ever developed in Australia.

Monday’s media call was the first public glimpse of King Kong in full-flight, and while interest in seeing the stage adaptation of a story first brought to movie screens in 1933 might be high, the state government’s expectations are arguably even higher.

“The reason the Victorian government supports productions such as King Kong are for the tourism value,” Tourism and Major Events Minister Louise Asher said. The government is banking on 50,000 national and overseas visitors coming to Melbourne for King Kong, delivering an expected $45 million to the state’s economy.

King Kong is in preview at the Regent Theatre, Melbourne, from May 28; the world premiere is June 15.

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Leading lady Esther Hannaford. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Leading lady Esther Hannaford. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Leading lady Esther Hannaford. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre.Leading lady Esther Hannaford. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Sonny Tilders, creature designer. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim

King Kong media call at the Regent Theatre. Picture: Eddie Jim


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27 Jul 18

A 34-year-old man has been charged in Tamworth over allegations of harness race fixing at Muswellbrook and Tamworth.
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The charge is the latest from Strike Force Trentbridge, which was formed to investigate allegations of race fixing in NSW.

Earlier this month, detectives arrested and charged two men over the alleged ‘drenching’ of a horse in a Tamworth thoroughbred event.

A third man was arrested and charged with firearms offences.

Investigations have continued since then, with a focus on harness racing.

About 7am today detectives searched a home at Werris Creek Road at Duri near Tamworth and arrested a 34-year-old harness racing trainer.

He was charged with two counts each of facilitating conduct that corrupts the betting outcome of an event, and use corrupt conduct information to bet on event.

He was bailed to appear at Tamworth Local Court in June.

A 47-year-old man, arrested on May 12, was charged with six extra offences relating to harness racing fixing when he appeared today in Tamworth Local Court.

They include two counts of engaging in conduct that corrupts the betting outcome of an event; and four counts of facilitating conduct that corrupts the betting outcome of an event.

Both sets of charges relate to alleged race fixing in a number of harness racing events in Tamworth and Muswellbrook between December 2012 and April 2013.

Strikeforce Trentbridge comprises of detectives from the Firearms and Organised Crime Squad’s Casino and Racing Investigation Unit.

Investigations by Strike Force Trentbridge into all forms of racing in NSW are ongoing and detectives continue to work closely with Racing NSW and Harness Racing NSW.

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27 Jul 18

j polson KICKOFF
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Click here for full coverage.

 

Sharks Stadium, Monday 7pm (AEST)Last meeting: Round 2 2013 – Souths 14 bt Sharks 12 at ANZ StadiumHead-to-head: Sharks 45 Souths 40 drawn 3Referees: Ben Cummins, Brett SuttorTV: FoxSports 1 (live)TAB Sportsbet: Sharks $3.40 Souths $1.33FootyTab: Sharks +6.5

Phil Mitchell writes: Not that they need any encouragement but Souths diehards will be death-riding their arch rivals the Roosters on Saturday night. If the the Storm beat the Roosters and the Rabbitohs defeat Cronulla, Souths will move three points clear of the Storm and four ahead of the Roosters at the top of the table. That would be a handy buffer heading into the State of Origin period, which is unlikely to affect Souths too much but will test the Roosters and Storm.

The Rabbitohs will be mindful, though, not to get ahead of themselves because Cronulla are likely to be tricky opponents. The Sharks will be buoyed by the return of internationals Paul Gallen and Luke Lewis, and have won their two previous encounters against the Rabbitohs at Sharks Stadium.

Phil’s tip: Rabbitohs by four

AAP writes: South Sydney have enjoyed an entirely smooth ride in their rise to the top of the NRL ladder this year. That all changed when star signing Ben Te’o was this week accused of assaulting a Brisbane woman. How that will impact their on-field form remains to be seen. But if there is one team in the competition who is aware of what a disruptive preparation can do to a team’s form, it’s Cronulla. But the Sharks appear to have managed to put the distracting ASADA investigation to one side for the time being, winning three straight games. Cronulla also welcome back Test stars Paul Gallen and Luke Lewis from injury.

Key: This is one of Michael Maguire’s biggest tests since returning to the NRL as a head coach. How he handles the group while Te’o’s name remains in the headlines for the wrong reasons will determine whether or not the Bunnies can continue their terrific start to the year.

SHARKS: Michael Gordon, Sosaia Feki, Ben Pomeroy, Jonathan Wright, Beau Ryan, Todd Carney, Jeff Robson, Andrew Fifita, John Morris, Ben Ross, Luke Lewis, Wade Graham, Paul Gallen. Interchange: Chris Heighington, Jayson Bukuya, Isaac De Gois, Anthony Tupou, Tyrone Peachey, Sam Tagatese (two to be omitted).

RABBITOHS: Greg Inglis, Nathan Merritt, Beau Champion, Dylan Walker, Bryson Goodwin, John Sutton, Adam Reynolds, George Burgess, Issac Luke, Roy Asotasi, Chris McQueen, Ben Te’o, Sam Burgess. Interchange: Nathan Peats, Jason Clark, Ben Lowe, Jeff Lima, Dave Tyrrell (one to be omitted).

Welcome to tonight’s coverage to wrap up round 11 as the Sharks host the table-topping Rabbitohs.  Souths have the chance to go four points clear at the top of the NRL ladder with a win tonight, but wet conditions at Shark Park mean I won’t go predicting anything.  We’ll keep you updated with any team changes as they come to hand but we can confirm that Jeff Lima has been left out of the Rabbitohs’ 17.  Some big news breaking out of the NSW Origin camp with Kurt Gidley ruled out of next week’s opener, we’ll have a story on smh南京夜网.au which I’ll send your way as soon as we get it.  Queensland have just named their side as well:

Billy Slater, Darius Boyd, Greg Inglis, Justin Hodges, Brent Tate, Johnathan Thurston, Cooper Cronk, Matt Scott, Cameron Smith (capt), Dave Shillington, Nate Myles, Sam Thaiday, Ashley Harrison. Interchange: Ben Te’o, Matt Gillett, Corey Parker, Chris McQueen. 18th and 19th men: Daly Cherry-Evans, Josh Papalii.

Big news with Chris McQueen being handed his Origin debut, while Daly Cherry-Evans’ chances presumably hinge on injuries after Cooper Cronk wasn’t charged after Saturday’s match.

The teams are on the field and we’re moments away from kick-off.

1 min: Bryson Goodwin gets us under way and Ben Ross takes the first hit-up for the Sharks.

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27 Jul 18

Raw foodism involves a diet of organic or wild foods, along with the so-called ”superfoods”. Photo: Kim Kim FosterDavid Wolfe has a habit of giving an answer the opposite of what is expected. Ask him about the neo-raw-food movement, and he describes it as ”ancient, old and nothing new”.
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Ask the American nutritionist about the modern Western diet of refined sugars, additives and processed foods, and he replies: ”The dietary chaos we’re in right now is actually very good.”

Let him explain: ”We’re finding out what doesn’t work and what does. We’re opening up new pathways of knowledge. Without crisis, there’s no opportunity.”

Wolfe is one of the world’s leading proponents of raw food, advocating a lifestyle of consuming only unprocessed and uncooked food. He overhauled his diet 20 years ago, changing to raw, plant-based foods.

Raw foodism, as the movement is called, involves a diet of organic or wild foods, along with the so-called ”superfoods”.

Wolfe champions superfoods such as goji berries, hemp seed and blue-green algae, which he believes have helped him sustain a busy lifestyle touring the world promoting natural and organic living.

In a series of talks across Australia in May, the best-selling author hopes to reinvigorate raw-food communities and spark creativity in the growing number of raw-food and vegetarian eateries. Along with his vibrant persona, he has brought a haul of scientific proof.

He considers the raw-food diet to be a ”great cleansing protocol” that helps people simplify their eating attitudes to understand what is and isn’t necessary. And, in an age in which people are leading increasingly fast-paced lives and being exposed to a multitude of chemicals, he says the need for an ”original, authentic and pure” diet is crucial.

He concedes that living on raw food can be difficult. The most common complaint from those who give up the diet is that it’s too expensive and fills the body with too much fibre. ”Organic food is crazy expensive,” he says, ”but are you going to pay now or pay later, because the chemicals in food are just scary. And if there’s too much fibre, eat more fruit, more berries and food with soluble fibre. Uncooked broccoli is quite a heavy load on your system.”

To help new converts adjust to the lifestyle, raw-food chef Julie Mitsios opened the Earth to Table cafe in Bondi Junction six months ago, and was surprised by the demand.

”People are getting more interested in eating healthy, fresh food,” she says. ”Our most popular item is the decadent raw-chocolate smoothie. It has maca, goji berries and lucuma. People feel good after drinking it.”

Mitsios plans to expand, envisioning 10 raw-food restaurants within five years. She estimates that a quarter of her patrons are raw-food purists.

Marioul Valcorza took a gamble and opened another of Sydney’s first raw-food eateries, Sadhana Kitchen in Newtown, in 2012.

”I found eating raw food gave me more energy and vitality,” she says. ”It was insane to open the cafe, considering I had no background in hospitality and didn’t know if it would work.”

Buoyed by success, Valcorza will soon move the restaurant to a larger space on King Street, and she has plans to launch kiosks and food trucks to promote raw food.

Simon Lawson, executive chef at the Agape Organic Restaurant and Bar in Botany, began getting requests for raw-food menus three years ago. He now regularly serves raw-food dishes on request and hosts raw-food feasts.

The rise of raw-food restaurants in Sydney in the past three years is something Wolfe has witnessed in cities around the world. Restaurants in Chicago and New York are leading the way, he says.

”It’s becoming more sophisticated and interesting. People are eating it up.”

See davidwolfeaustraliantour南京夜网.

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27 Jul 18

Celebrating tradition: Part of the cellar at Lion Nathan winery at St Hallett. Photo: Brendan Esposito lion-nathan
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Age was a recurring theme at St Hallett’s recent celebration of the 30th vintage of its flagship Old Block Shiraz. Age is, of course, an important factor in the provenance of the wine. It’s not called Old Block for nothing. The first two vintages, in 1980 and ’82, were sourced solely from the vineyard affectionately known as the Old Block, which was planted by the Lindner family in 1912, on the site where the winery is today. That’s pretty ancient by any yardstick.

Then there’s the winemakers. Stuart Blackwell has been chief winemaker at St Hallett from its rebirth in the late 1970s. Now, he’s more like a winemaker emeritus, or style counsel. He spends a lot of his time doing promotional work, and has been replaced as hands-on winemaker by the youthful Toby Barlow, formerly winemaker at Mitchelton. Prefacing the final bracket of wines in the tasting, 2006 to 2010, Blackwell said: ”This is where Toby has taken over: the hip-hop versus the hip replacement.”

The Barossa Valley is the repository of some of the oldest vines in Australia – indeed, the world. But old vines don’t in themselves guarantee great wine. The vines have to be healthy and in good order, and the wine has to be well made.

This fact was apparent to Blackwell early on. The Old Block did not always come up to par. He decided to supplement the wine with grapes from other old vineyards. Sometimes there was no Old Block at all: indeed, no Old Block grapes have been used since 1999. And, from 1984, grapes from the higher, cooler Eden Valley have been blended with those from the Barossa Valley floor to bring elegance to what might otherwise be more of a blockbuster than Blackwell wanted to produce.

Old vines can, of course, give fruit of great depth and concentration. They typically give small yields of small berries with softer tannins and concentrated flavour, and because their roots tend to be deep (especially if unirrigated), they are consistent, and can weather the years that bring extremes of drought or rain.

”We consider old vines to be 35 years and older,” Blackwell says. ”They tend to produce shiraz that has darker-fruit flavours – blackberry, etc. The red fruit flavours tend to come from younger vines.” Then he adds quickly: ”It’s a rule that’s easily thrown out, though.”

I found at St Hallett that the old vines gave wine of extra colour saturation, great palate density and complex aromas that evoke not only fruits but tar, bitumen, smoke, creosote, earth and humus, even black coffee. After oak-maturation, you can add mocha and dark chocolate to the espresso tastes and aromas.

Consider the Koch family’s Willandra vineyard beside Jacob’s Creek in the Rowland Flat area. First planted in 1919 by the grandfather of present owner Graeme Koch, this vineyard now covers 32 hectares. Fruit from its 1926 block is one of the mainstays of St Hallett Old Block Shiraz. It’s been part of the blend every year since 1990, gradually increasing in importance in the mix. Since 2003, it’s been at least 45 per cent of the blend, often much more. The second-most important grower is the Fechner family of Moculta, whose grapes are included most years.

Standing in the Willandra vineyard, I tasted two samples of 2012 shiraz that had been made from its vines. Wine one had staggering density of colour, aroma and palate – the last both in texture and flavour. There was fantastic depth of blackberry and blueberry aroma, plus tremendous richness, extract and a wealth of tannin – soft, silky tannin, nothing harsh or astringent about it, even at this tender age.

Wine two was picked on a different day, and was lighter in every way: more fragrant, with more high notes, leaner and more elegant, tighter, with good acidity, but not as rich or fleshy as wine one. But it would also be a useful component of Old Block Shiraz.

As Blackwell said: ”We’ve never been about creating the biggest burster of a wine, but celebrating the history and tradition of the region.” To that end, the blend might include components from Rowland Flat, Light Pass, Kalimna, Greenock, Angaston, Seppeltsfield, Moculta, Williamstown, Springton, Tanunda and elsewhere.

Old Block has never been one of the Barossa’s Betty Blockbusters. It’s never aspired to that.

On the other hand, some of the blockbuster wines might not be as long-lived. Old Block has proved to have a long lifespan. In the 30-year tasting, none of the vintages were ”over the hill”: those that had faded or were past their best were from the less successful vintages, and this is a matter of the season, not the fruit-sourcing or winemaking style.

The winemaking has always emphasised freshness, and Blackwell has never been afraid to correct the acidity if need be. This is also important for longevity. Oak has been scaled back and the wine is less oaky today, although it sees a high proportion of new barrels. They were 100 per cent new in the mid-2000s but this has been backed off a little. As well, it’s now 100 per cent French oak, whereas in the early days it was all American. Quantity varies widely: the 2007 was the smallest output at 700 cases; good years can produce as much as 3000 cases.

The best vintages? The 2010, to be released on July 1 at $100 a bottle, is probably the best yet. Then came, in order (on my notes) 2006, 1990, 1982, 2002, 2008, 1991, 1999, 2004, 1996, 1994, 1986, 2001, 1988, 1984, 1998, 1992, 2009, 2007, 1995, 1997, 1985, 1980, 1987, 1989. Those below par on the day were 1983, 1993, 2000, 2003 and 2005.

Complete tasting notes at huonhooke南京夜网.2010 St Hallett Old Block Shiraz

(20 per cent Eden Valley. 14.2 per cent alcohol; screwcap)

Deep, dense, dark-purple colour. Concentrated black fruits, dried herbs, sage, pepper and blackberry. Hints of liquorice and aniseed, but subtle. Very complex and stylish; great concentration and power; a profound and enormously impressive wine, of tremendous softness and persistence. Best drinking 2015 to 2045. 97/100.

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27 Jul 18

New kid on the block … Rabbitohs star Chris McQueen will join the Maroons squad for the first time. Photo: Will Russell/Getty Images Chris McQueen
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Queensland will have at least one new face and one controversial inclusion on the bench after naming its extended squad for the State of Origin opener on June 5 in Sydney.

South Sydney hardman Chris McQueen has catapulted past the competition to force his way onto the Maroons bench, where he will join fellow Rabbitoh Ben Te’o should the pair make it through Monday night’s clash with the Sharks.

Te’o has been accused of assaulting Brisbane woman Katie Lewis but has denied any wrongdoing. With no police involvement at this stage, Queensland had no legal reason not to bring him back into the 17-man squad.

On a day of good fortune for the Maroons, in which prop David Shillington (high tackle) and halfback Cooper Cronk (lifting tackle) were cleared by the NRL, Queensland was also given a late boost with news that winger Darius Boyd could be available.

Boyd suffered a leg injury against the Warriors but his club Newcastle said this afternoon there was no serious damage and he could be available for selection. He has been named but if he fails to line up, Melbourne winger Justin O’Neill will take his place and make his Origin debut.

There was little debate over the Queensland backline, which will feature Billy Slater at fullback, Greg Inglis and Justin Hodges in the centres, Brent Tate on one wing and Cronk and Johnathan Thurston in the halves.

Manly’s Daly Cherry-Evans has been included in a 19-man squad as cover for Thurston, whose partner Samantha Lynch is expecting a baby any day.

Shillington takes his place in the front row, alongside Matt Scott and captain Cameron Smith. Sam Thaiday, Nate Myles and Ash Harrison lock a well-tried Queensland scrum.

McQueen’s versatility – he can also play in the centres – was one of the keys to his selection on the interchange bench alongside Corey Parker, Matt Gillett and Te’o. Canberra’s Josh Papalii has also been included in the squad as forward cover.

Queensland Billy Slater, Darius Boyd, Greg Inglis, Justin Hodges, Brent Tate, Johnathan Thurston, Cooper Cronk, Matt Scott, Cameron Smith (c), David Shillington, Sam Thaiday, Nate Myles, Ash Harrison. Interchange Corey Parker, Ben Te’o, Matt Gillett, Chris McQueen.

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